F12-7 



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LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 



014 112 953 3 * 




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LIBRARY OF CONGRESS, 



Cfjnj! Cojnjrirtfil T)o. 



UNITED STATES OF A.MEKICA. 



RIDES AND RAMBLES 

) 

OT\T 



TATEN 1SLA 










I3v REAU CAMPBELL 
Editor of "A POINTER," and 

AUTHOR OF "WINTER CITIES IN A SUMMER LAND;" "RAMBLES FOR SUMMER 

DAYS;" "54;" "THE CORNER OF THE CONTINENT;" "VI AND JACK;" 

"HOOK AND I;" "CUBA IN EASY LESSONS;" "PALM LEAVES OF 

FLORIDA, A TRIP FROM PASSADUMKEAG TO OKEECHOBEE;" 

"STATEROOM 33; THE MYSTERY OF TWO KEYS;" 

"SISTERS OR sweethearts;" "AROUND 

THE CORNER TO CUBA;" ETC., ETC. 



PUBLISHRD FOR 

STATEN ISLAND RAPID TRANSIT RAILROAD. 



1889: 

C. (r. CRAWFORD, 
New Yokk, 






N. * 10RK : 
PRfSS OP C. O CRAWFORD 

43 1 ;i Park Place 



[Entered according to Act of Cong***, In die year 1869, in tl 01 Librarian of < 

lit Washington.] 



RIDES AND RAMBLES ON STATEN ISLAND. 



^amn^scSm^^^S'ty. v) ) ),W- ill I II II >—^^ 





,NE hundred and thirty- 
three years ago the New 
York Post Boy, of No- 
vember 10th, contained 
the following advertisement : 
" Publick Notice is hereby given to all, Gentle- 
men Travellers, that Martin Duckett has rented the 
noted ferry house on Statten Island, lately kept by 
John Watson, where he intends to keep the Best Enter- 
tainment for man and Horse, with three good boats con- 
stantly attending said ferry to and from New York and 
p5 Statten Island, in company with Scotch Johnny of said city, 
.. Tavern Keeper ; as also a commodious Stable with all kinds 

of Provinder for horses where all Gentlemen Travellers may 
be assured of best entertainment for themselves and horse with the 
most carefull and expeditious passages across the Bay, by apply- 
ing to said Scotch Johnny, near White Hall Ferry stairs, or said 
Duckett on Statten Island aforesaid ; and in case a boat showd be 
wanted in any emergency there shall be one in readiness on notice 
given to either of the Persons above mentioned." 

Thus early there were attractions on the pretty Islaud down the 
Bay, on the island that the Indians called " Eghquahonse " or 
"Aquehonga Manacknong," and which the Dutch named Staaten Ey- 
landt, the Island of the States, after they had bought it from the red 
men. The pi'ice paid could hardly be called an exorbitant one, but the 
Indian was not a gx*asping land owner, and the early Dutch no spend- 
thrifts, so the consideration as finally agreed on was "Foure hundred 
fathom of Wampum, 30 Match Boots, 8 Ooates of Durens made up, 30 
Shirts, 30 Kettles, 20 Gunnes, a Firken of Powder, 60 Barres Lead, 30 
Axes, 30 Howes and 50 Knives." The Dutch purchasers were themselves 
not impressed with the munificence of the price, and labored under the 
suspicion that the noble Bed might change his mind for some reason or 
other, as "Injun givers " sometimes did, and come and take the Island 
back again, so it was stipulated that the Indians should come into court 
every once in a while and put "his mark " on the bill of sale. But this 
transfer was final, and no trouble arose from previous mortgages involving other 
shirts, kettles, gunnes, match boots, etc. 

But this is ancient history, where there are recorded also shipwrecks on Bobbins 
Reef of numerous ferry-boats with more or less loss of life, down to the days of Cor- 
nelius Van Der Bilt and his schooner "Dread," plying between the Island and New 
York, fare eighteen cents, down to the early steamboats. 

"Scotch Johnny" does not keep tavern near White Hall Ferry Stairs now, and 
Martin Duckett has crossed over Sharon's ferry, but at White Hall Ferry Stairs there 
are still some ferry-boats " constantly attending said ferry, " whereby "All Gentle- 
men Travellers " and " ladyes " too, with their horses may find "the most carefull 
and expeditious passages across the bay," to an Island with indenting bays, and clear 
running streams, where high hills lift' up their wooded crests, with shaded vales in 



RIDES AND AM MBLE8 



between, where the breezes blow fresh from the Baity sea, and long white beaches 
stretch <>ut their sands under a rolling surf or a lazily running tide of bine waters, 
an island where every Like lms its legend of Indian maiden and dusky warrior, or 
pale faced lover, and every village the scene <>f Borne historic tale of hero and hen ine 
in deeds <>f daring " in the days that tried men's souls, " and where the houses stand 
to-day whose very walls could tell <>f councils of war or treaties of peace. 

That island is Staten Island, which with all its wealth of scenic beauty, historic 




The Casino, St. Geobge. 

Lore, ami romantic legend lies nearer in miles and minutes than the upper shores of 
Manhattan and the route thence, traversed by swiftly sailing steamers through the 
beautiful bay where floats the flag of every nation — making little voyages of a few 
minutes, yet showing pictures that many a man has crossed the ocean to see- from 
the forward deck of these steel cruisers the island rises up from the water in the 
greenest hills pointed with many a curious gable or slender spire, of villa, cottage, 
church or amusement hall "back aft" the great city lies, ending in its one green 
spot of "down town," the Battery; behind it the lofty buildings high as Babel's 
tower and representing as much confusion, the highest is the Washington building, 
the great red, square tower is theProduce Exchange, the buff is the ( iotton Exchange 
and farther up is the brown spire of Trinity Church where the tourist of other Mays 
climbed its hundred steps to look down upon the city. 

Down neai- the water on the west side is Castle Garden, where Jenny Lind sang 

her tirst son"; for American ears. Near to the terry slip is the granite " barge office, ' 
that was intended to be a sort of first-class Castle Garden where all first-class passen- 
gers should land and pass the customs officers. 

The greal Suspension Bridge can be seen from tower to tower high above the 
shipping, the giant cables stretching down over the tops of the houses on either 
shore. The oven-like fori on < iovernors Island is close on the port side, and on the 

starboard Liberty lifts high her torch. Also oa the port side the big stores of 



ON STATED ISLAND. 



Brooklyn line the shore down to the green grass of Bay Bidge, and on the starboard 
are the flats whence Liberty's light besides enlightening the world does other duty in 
calling the mosquitos from Jersey. 

All the beauty of the picture is not on shore, the water is full of it, the route of 
the ferry is in the track of the great ocean steamers that are coming and going every 
day, and on Saturdays there may be seen, in the afternoon, such a fleet as nowhere 
else on the globe. White excursion boats, colors flying and bands playing bound 
for " Coney " or "the Branch " pass swiftly by ; yachts with snowy sails "tack and 
come about " under the lee of the ferry ship ; three-mast ships and four, and 
schooners lay lazily at anchor waiting for a cargo or to discharge one ; a venture- 
some rowboat is a speck in the water here and there, and some sturdy fishermen are 
pulling up their nets filled with silvery shiners ; a puffing tug tugs at a raft or a tow 
of coal barges, and hundred other craft plow the waters everywhere — all this in a 
little twenty minute voyage, and there is hardly time to see it before the ferry boat 
comes into the island slip at 

St. Geokge 

with scarcely a jar or a jostle. A single glance around will show that the Dutch did 
not pay toomuch for their island or that property has advanced since the purchase. 
The Casino and Park of the Staten Island Amusement Company are at St. George, 




Old St. Mark Hotel, New Biugiiton. 

within a minute's walk of the ferry. Athletic games and spectacular shows take place 
here during the summer, where one escaping the city's heated walls may come with 
an appetite whetted by the fresh sea air, enjoy an excellent dinner, and see entertain- 
ments " out doors " that hitherto were only seen within the theatre's walls ; and here 
the most gorgeous spectacles are totally unabridged and staged on a scale unparal- 
leled for beauty, splendor and vastness, on the largest stage in the world. Here have 
been exhibited the historic " Fall of Babylon " and "Rome under Nero," when the 



6 



RIDES A \H RAMBLES 



i i',\ a found I iic on] % 1 1 l,i i . • -\> in re tin re was room h to materialize thi ir great 

Bpectacnlar ideas, and here they put b thousand dancing girls to dance before scenery 
thai was no whit smaller than what it represented, as it Looked, across the lawn. 

The Btreei np the hill from the fenrj Leads t > a pretty suburban district where the 
modest cottage and the Queen Anne village stand side by side, on either side a 
smootli drive-way, well kept lawns brightened with pretty flower-beds are every- 
where, and luxuriant shade-trees cast their grateful shadows on gallery and piazza, 
and do business aa hammock posts, where many a fair island* r lolls lazily the Bum- 
mer hours away. 

The view from these hills is superb. Looking north the city is in the back 
ground, the glorious Bay in the fdre, to the left the shores of Jersey, on the right 




Sm u IIabbob. 



Long Island, vvitli green tries and grass from Bay Ridge <<> Port Hamilton, and 
in the southeast the sands of Coney Island oro outlined. Beyond it the mighty 
ocean rolls. 

A walk up and down those shady lam and never tiresomo, but 

when wearied feet protest there's the Rapid Transit road with frequent trains running 
from station to station, where one may ride for a street-car tare. < >r, if you prefer a 
carriage, or a buggy with just room for two, it may bo obtained at the ferry. Just 
outside the gates is a little booth with telephone to the st allies, Ihe message sent, and 
the rig is on hand by the time you can refresh the inner man at Mime adjoinin; 
restaurant or garden. 

The drives of Staten Island i the hills cs\ ■ the bay 

or through the woods into the interior. 'The hard macadamized roads are wide and 

ioth, and the wheels -will run easily and almost noiselessly. The road from St. 
George, leading west to Erastina and beyond, passes through one village and enters 
another, a never ending continuity of pretty yards and lawns, and cozy cottages, 
and eastward to Fori Wadsworthand the South Beach a! Axrochar, with widespreadlng 



ON STA TEN ISLAND. 



Views of the sea, or glimpses of the hay and the Kills peeping through the trees 
The cities up the bay, on Long Island and in Jersey in the distance, all the forts and 
harbor defenses are in the picture. Driving into the interior, there are fine farms, 
and the country seats of prominent New Yorkers. The road through the woods finds 
many a quiet nook, pretty lake, or noisy brook of clear water Wild violets and water 
lilies make blue carpets, or white dot the quiet waters-there is such a variety of 

scene in these drives on Staten Island that the com- 
parison grows odious to all the others around the 
cities of the bay. 

Which way to drive ? 

Any way. There are so many roads that lead to 
so many charming places that no directions are ne- 
cessary. Get in the buggy and give your horse the 
rein, he will take you somewhere, and you 11 be 
glad you came. 

New Brighton 

is a summer resort of many years, and was, long 

before the iron-horse commenced galloping 

along the water-front and New 

Yorkers flocked to the big hotels 

»J|§F at New Brighton— first, because 

Ssi^iSbffl^-'lJ it was near the city and the most 

liKS^ convenient for them ; they could 

"^W attend to their business and go to 

Hieir summer home at night and 

without fatigue of travel, the few 

minutes sail brought cooling sea 

breezes instead of dust and cinders, incident to an 

r " all-rail route. " 

New Brighton is on the brow of a green-sodded terrace 
at the entrance of the Kill von Kull, with a fine view of the 
bay and harbor, extending from Bergen Point, up around 
through Jersey City, New York, Brooklyn, down by Bay 
Eidge and Fort Hamilton to Coney Island and the sea. The 
terrace is shaded by large trees, under which winds the island road 
or village street, with stone sidewalks on either side. 
The hotels are ample buildings, with rooms for hundreds of guests— wide galle- 
ries, supported by huge fluted columns, the architecture of the old style that gives 
attention to breathing room more than economy of space ; the ceilings are high and 
the windows reach from there to the floor ; wide corridors run through the house 
from the four sides, crossing in the centre. Opening into this the airy chambers are 
finely ventilated. Some antique furniture and doors of solid mahogany are seen m these 
hotels, showing what the nabobs of other days demanded 111 their summer hotels. 
With all this old-time surrounding the modern conveniences are there also, and ele- 
vators are put in to save the carpets on the stairs, and grandfather s clocks that did 
not stop when the old man died keep time at the turn of the stairs as well as they 

Ve The C prettv little station of the Rapid Transit road is on Richmond Terrace, the 
main street of the village, within a minute's walk of the hotels and boarding places 
and the twenty-minute trains bring the place conveniently near the city. Ihe pietty 
residences on shaded streets extend along the water front ami back ovei the hills, 




RIDES ANB U.\ VBLES 



making an ideal summer town where a season maybe passed quietly and restfully 
ami yet it is within easy business call. 

BaILOKS 1 S\i G II ai;i:i>i; 

is down the road a mile From New Brighton the Bnuggest of snug harbors, where the 
weather beaten and battered "old salt, "who has sailed five yean before the mast in 
any service under the American flag, may find a home without money and without 
price, where be need take no thought of the morrow as to what be shall eal <>r what he 
shall drink, or wherewithal shall lie he clothed as any disablement in the service 
entitles him to :i bed, three meals a day, and a blue uniform with gilt buttons. 

The institution is supported by :i private endowment, and is no expense to the 
state or national government. In the year one of this century, Robert Richard 
Randall, of most happy memory, concluded to make his will, and acting on the 
advice of Alexander Hamilton, gave the Randall farm on Manhattan Island to be 
held in trust for a seaman's home, the income to ^o to its support, and appointed as 
trustees the Chancellor of the State of New Yolk, the Mayor and Recorder of the 
City of New York, the President and Vice-President of the Marine Society, the 
President of the Chamber of Commerce, the senior Ministers of the Presbyterian and 
Episcopal churches, who have charge of the fund and full direction of the Harbor. 

Mr. Randall inherited the farm from his father, who acquired his fortune in hon« 
esl privateering during the war for Independence, and the bequest was well and 
appropriately chosen, that the fortune might go to the descendants of the men who 
helped to make it. 

The Randall farm was in the very centre of what is now New York City, the front 
fence, a pale fence, crossed Broadway just below the Sinclair Souse, extended over to 
Fourth avenue, along Waverly place to Fifth avenue, and was hounded on the north 
by the lands of the Brevoorts, and contained some twenty-one acres, more or less, and 
contained the site of the great A. T. Stewart stores, which is still the property of Snug 
Barbor, the ground being leased to Mr. Stewart by the trustees in lst'i'.i. and pays 
$36,000 annually to the Harbor as ground rent. This lease expires in 1890. Other 
property pays equally well, so that the income for the benefit Of disabled seamen has 
increased from$4,243 in 1806, to the handsome sum of $325,092in 1887. Thenumber 
of beneficiaries has increased from thirty-three in 1806 to over a thousand in 1887. 

The handsome white buildings with porticos, supported by massive columns, can 
be seen from the cars, in the midst of a well-kept lawn, shaded by a grove of elms, 
under which the blue-coated veterans of sea stroll or sit on benches with no compul- 
sory occupation, and only at work Bmokingthe pipe of peace, or respinning the yarns 
of the forecasts — a sailor knows no chestnuts, and a story is new each time it "s told. 

The sailor has all his wants supplied, even to tobacco. Grog alone is interdicted ; 
he must " go ashore " for that. These men, though not compelled to work, do not 
finish their lives in idleness ; some air employed as guides to the grorinds, and to do 
other duties about the buildings ; otherswork on the farm if they like, or they make 
baskets, hammocks and miniature ships. If an old sailor chafes and wearies of the 
quiet life at the Harbor, he has simply to notify the superintendent and walk out the 
gate, to come back when he chooses. He may spend a day, a week, or a month with 
friends or relations, or he may tfo to sea and be gone for years, to come back with 
new yarns to tell, yarns that reach from Greenland's icy mountains to India's coral 
strand, and it's worth any summer's day to visit the Harbor, sit under the trees, and 
hear them spun. . 

" LlVINOSToN 

Ne\t stop ! " is what the trainman's yell maybe translated to, alter leaving Bnug 
Harbor on B west-bound train, and the train halts at a station that looks more like a 



ON STATEN ISLAND. 



summer cottage, located in a grove of trees with pretty beds of flowers in the yard. Liv- 
ingston is the station for the Staten Island Cricket Club, whose fine grounds are 
within a few minutes' walk of the cars, where that interesting game is played between 
the crack clubs of this country and Canada. 

Hart Park is a suburb of Livingston, where many new dwellings, both for summer 
and winter occupation, are being built on one of the prettiest sites on the island. 

Two minutes more to the westward is West Brighton, a characteristic Staten 
Island village of comfortable homes, green lawns and flowers. Then after three 
minutes the train rolls up to 

Poet Richmond, 

noted historically as the place where Aaron Burr died, at the Continental, now the 
St. James Hotel, a home-like place. Down the shore road are some pleasant walks 
with much to interest. The water-front is occupied by all kinds and classes of craft, 
sailing ships and steamers, which may be seen from a seat on the right-hand side of 
the cars ; on the other side of the Kill are the hotels and residences of Bergen Point, 
a favorite resort of many New Yorkers — and the view widens out directly to Newark 
Bay. The long bridge of Jersey Central crosses it, and back of it are the spires of 
Newark. 

There is a stage line connection from Port Richmond to Linoleumville, where 
there are large manufactories of linoleum and oilcloths. 

Elm Park and Tower Hill are resorts of picnickers and the places for scheutzen- 
fests where Dutch meet Dutch and there is a flow of beer. Arlington, below 

Erastina, 

is the present terminus of the Staten Island Rapid Transit Railroad, on the north 
shore, and in the park is the place of Buffalo Bill's famous Wild West exhibitions, 
where some years ago he made his first great metropolitan success. The ample 
grounds were big enough for the maneuvers of the scouts and the prowling of the red 
skins, the drive of the Deadwood coach, the buffaloes and wild steers for lassoing, 
bucking horses and the flight of the pony express. In the splendid grove of forest 
trees the wigwam and the hunter's hut were neighbors in a realistic picture, and no- 
where, except at Erastina or the plains of the wild west, could such a picture be seen. 

After two years Buffalo Bill came back again, with cowboy, Indian, steer, buffalo 
and bucking horse, Deadwood coach and all, to amuse old friends and new ones. 
Among the new, some came from Fifth avenue, and as far away as Boston, to shake 
the hand that shook Wales's, don-cher-know, and to ride in the old Deadwood, where 
the Princesses rode. It was quite "good form " to go to see the Wild West then, be- 
cause 'twas English, quite English, you know, and Buffalo Bill took in some shekels 
that he could never have hoped for if he had not shaken hands with the Prince of 
Wales or shot b 'fore the Queen. 

Just below Erastina there is an extension of the track to the shores of the Arthur 
Kill, where the bridge has been built that will bring the trains of the great Baltimore 
and Ohio to the waters of New York bay on their own tracks and to build a great 
city on the Island of the States. 

One never knows how great a crowd is on a ferry-boat till they gather at the 
gates preparatory to making a landing, especially so on the mammoth double 
deckers of the Rapid Transit Company's ferry between New York and Staten Island, 
which have the greatest carrying capacity ; and when the excursionists and resident- 
ers swarm off at St. George this fact is apparent. At the gate sonorous voices tell the 
people to " take the train on the right for New Brighton, Snug Harbor, Livingston, 
West Brighton, Port Richmond, Tower Hill, Elm Park and Erastina." Another 



10 



RIDES AND //.I i//;/./.w 



singer oul Bays w itli equal melody, " Train on the lef I for Tompkinsville, Stapleton, 
Clifton, Rosebank, Fori Wadsworth, Arrochar, ami all points on 

The East Shobe." 

This is a rapid transit company in deed as well as name. When the passengers 
have lef t the boat and are seated in the cars, the train moves off without delay. The 
tracks arc double, and these is no 'waiting for incoming trains. The stations arc 
enclosed and have elevated platforms to the floor level of the coaches. Passengers 
pass through the gates, drop their tickets in the " chopper-box," alter the manner of 

the •• L " 
■&&U&&m*'& ' ■ ' ■'■<yMV*gafca<B roads in 

the city, 
and t h e 
five - dllt 
fare is all 

that is de- 
manded 
between 

Krast ina 
and Arro- 
c h ar ; a 

1 ell-cell t 

ticket 
inn st be 
bought ; 
it bears a 
rebate 
coupon 
on v, hich 

five cent i 

is refun- 
ded at the 
endofthe 

journey. 
T r a i n s 




A Hamblb. 



•'(> s u v f I run rap- 
^4 idly, and 



st at ions 



are many 
and short between. < me is hardly passed before another is announced. This seems 
a vaai improvement on the old way of the ferryboats making all the landings, which 

was slow and tedious. And. with all these advantages, the tare is only ten cents from 
New York, boat and rail, to any station between Krastina and Arrochar. 

The train runs on express time, and the tunnel just east of St. George is but a 

\\ ink. the darkness comes and goes so quickly. After the tunnel, coiiies 

ToMCkissvii.i.r. 

named for old Governor Tompkins a place of growing commercial importance. The 
large Btorage houses of the American Docks are located on the water-front. The 

New York Canoe club-house is here, and for those who admire the artistic models of 

tiny craft, a \isit to Tompkinsville will prove interesting, rjntil thirty years ago 
the Quarantine Buildings were located near Tompkinsville, as if the people of New 



ON sta ten island. 



11 



York wore looking out for themselves and without regard to the health of the 
Islanders. After one or two epidemics, thirty years ago, the people began to tire of it. 
They appealed to the Legislating ; but the process of law was ever slow, and after 
another scourge the people took the matter into their own hands and burned the 
buildings. It was an expensive tire, as the county had to pay for it ; but the people, 
doubtless, thought it was cheaper than doctors' bills, to say nothing of funeral 
expenses, so their wrath was kindled as also the fire. Afterward the quarantine 
station was removed down the bay to Hoffman and Dix Islands, and Staten Island 
regained her health to such an extent that its high hills and bracing air attracted 
the attention of philanthropists, who, with charitable intent, built their institutions 
, ,_ er^s:? ,~r\-^-. .. here, notably Sailors' Snug Harbor, Uni- 

ted States Marine Hospital, and several 
others of note, their location being the 
very best evidence of the healthfulness of 
the section. 

Just north of the site of the old 

quarantine station stands the old 

jw. Austen House, which for years was 

^' uninhabited and was called "the 

haunted 
house," 
because 
a King 
George 
soldier 
killed 
himself 
for an un- 
requited 
.---"' '-"- I-"' love, and 

the alleg- 
ed clinking of spurs on ghostly heels _ 
.; ''/ ,. at midnight kept many a tenant away 
and made the passers by hurry on or 
go the other way. But now all is peace and 
quiet there, with no vapory visitors. 

Stap:leton 

is the next stop — another commercial city by the sea. The capital city of this 
province of King Gambrinus' realm is Stapleton, the site of some of Staten Island's 
most famous breweries, established here on account of the purity of the water which 
comes in clear running streams from the hillside. The Teuton who could not be 
happy here, is no Teuton, or is untrue to his lineage. There are some schooners at 
Stapleton that are not used for the conveyance of the beverage of the town. Those of 
the Seawanhaka Corinthian Yacht Club are anchored near the shore, and the sloops 
and cutters have their homes here in winter. A street-car line leads out from Stajde- 
ton to Concord, and the Clove Koad. Up the hill to the right from the station is a 
pretty street, with cozy homes surrounded with flowers and many shade trees ; lead- 
ing off from this are other streets and lanes with crooks and turns on the hillside. 

Clipton 
is the junction of the road down the South shore with the line to Arrochar. The 




At Erastina. 



12 



RIDES AND RAMBLES 



little t.iw ii is noted historically as a place of business of the great Garibaldi. H.- lia.l 
:i manufactory al Clifton, not of swords, or guns, or cannon, for his "wars in Italy. He 
didn't make any of these lie made beer. The citizen of to-day points v itli pride to 
the brewery established by the famous general and his partner Meucci, who were in 
L851 among the first citizens of the place. The main line of the Staten Island Rapid 
Transit R. R. takes a turn to the southward, while the South Beach branch runs di- 
rectly east, passing through a rolling country where there are some fine old places, and 
makes the first Btop at Rosebank, a growing place of suburban residences ; a pretty 
village with a pretty name. 

Fobi Wadswobth 

is a more formidable name than Rosebank, but in these piping times of peace the 
Port is a good place to go to for a summer's jaunt, on wheels, by horse, or on foot. 

The rail- 
way sta- 
tion is a 
very pic- 

t n resq ae 
\ ilia- like 
building, 
w i t h a 
tower and 
some ga- 
bles, from 
w hence it 
is fi v e 
minutes 
W a 1 k to 
the fort 
and the 
sea, tak- 
ing the 

S t r e e t 
1 e ad i n g 

cast, from the station to New York Avenue, where turn 
to the right and come to the gate of the government vs*lhW^ 
grounds. Passing alone; in front of the officers' quar- 
ters, a row of comfortable houses with the Commandant's elegant one on the bin 11' 
overlooking the sea ; then come to the grassy parapets. There is a smooth pathway 
nil along the top. The view is magnificent. Al hundred feet below is the granite 
Lower fort, bristling with a hundred cannon. Aeross the Narrows arc Torts Lafayette 
and Hamilton ; the former down on the water's edge, the other on the rising ground 
above it. To the left and northeast, is Bay Ridge, and beyond, the great cities. To 
the right and southeast, Corny Island and Rookaway, and beyond, the boundless 
sen. A little west of south the sands of Sandy Hook are discoverable, with High- 
lands of Jersey in the background In the middle foreground are the Quarantine 
stations, banished by the [slanders in 1858 to Dix and Hoffman's islands. 

These parapets do not look as made tor war, butfor lovers' uses. It is a veritable 

lover's walk. The gentle sloping requires a. slow walk, and there is time to say many 
pretty words before theend is reached; and the green grass is an inviting resting 
place, where one may sit and watch the ships come and go, Bee them coming down 
the bay, pass through the narrows and for miles out to sea, till their black bodies 




OK STATEK ISLAKD. 



13 



drop out of sight, the tall masts slip from view and leave nothing bnt a little cloud of 
smoke on the eastern sky. Here is the best place on shore to see yacht races. The 
nautical panorama on such an occasion, as seen from Fort Wadsworth, is a grand 
picture. Opposite the Fort is the narrowest part of the Narrows. Here it was that 
the British, under Gen. Howe, crossed over to Long Island advancing on New York — 
and in winter, it is in history that solid ice has reached from shore to shore and men 
and teams passed over. The music from Fort Hamilton comes floating on the sum- 
mer air across the Narrows — this is how narrow the Narrows are, so one may enjoy 
the resorts over there and avoid the crowd ; aye, and one may see the Elephant on 
Coney Island too, without going there. 

All incoming ships must stop in front of Fort Wadsworth . A little red flag on 

shore marks the line where they must slow up — a little tug steams out from under 

the bluff, she carries a yellow flag ; it is "the doctor's boat" — if the ship is all right, 

she gets a clean bill of health and may proceed up the bay, otherwise she must go to 

f the Quarantine station. Fort Wadsworth offers everything 

, --"V^Vj, f° r a delightful ramble on a summer's day. 

Aekochak. 

"Last stop! All out for Arrochar ! " That's what the 
trainman says. Arrochar and South Beach are synonymous as 
far as the railroad track is concerned. South 
Beach is a long stretch of sand where there 
is good bathing, boating and fishing. What- 
ever Arrochar may mean literally, actually 
it is a place of pretty homes, a park of 
paradises where ends the track of the 
East Shore division of the Staten Island 
Rapid Transit It. B. The station is in the 
centre of a beautiful park, where winding 
roads and streets lead to the prettiest and 
cosiest homes to be found anywhere, end- 
ing on the bluffs of the Narrows or on the sands of South Beach. After a walk or 
drive through the park, take the road leading past the front of the station to 'he 
east or left hand, as you leave the station, and after a short walk come to a quaint 
old ruin on the left of the road. This was once the residence of Mr. Aspinwall, the 
great shipowner, and he might stand in his own door and see his ships come in — see 
them ten leagues away, coming to bring him fortune while he lingered here in luxury 
to wait for them. This old tower was his home, and if anywhere else but in America, 
might have been but the tower of some grand old castle long since a ruin, passed 
away, with only the tower left ; and if in a foreign land would have hundreds of 
American visitors ; but in this country of t new things, is left solitary and alone in its 
glory of crumbling walls, climbing ivy and rickety stairs. The Aspinwall tower 
stands on an eminence a hundred and fifty feet higher than the sea level ; the 
view from the lawn is superb, and from the top of the tower grand, grand in all that 
word implies. The main tower is octagonal in shape and is three stories high, and 
has on its eastern wall a smaller tower extending to an observatory twenty feet 
higher than the main building. In here is a winding stairs by which the upper floors 
were reached ; since the castle was burned, these stairs have been replaced by some 
rustic steps, which go up to the second story on the outside, and then inside to the 
top where there are seats to rest after the climb. Some vines almost cover the south 
wall, to add to the picture — a picture quaintly pretty and worthy of an artist's brush. 
This tower was used as an art gallery ; the pictures were hung on the octagonal 




14 



EWES AND /.'I VBLES 



walls and lighted from the skylight above; the upper room was for engravings, the 

lower floors tor paintings and statuary. The main honse and living r is Btood to 

tlic east of the tower; were burned many years ago during a dinner party. Net a 
vestige <>f" the house remains — only the <>ld tower is there, a relic of departed glory. 

A florist's Bign on the streej Leading up from the station will show the way to this 
most interesting spot on the Island. Enter by the stile over the wall and pass along 
the hedge to the greenhouses, and past them, up the hill to the tower. 

There are two ways to make this ramble and see it all : keep the train to Arrochar, 
walk up to the castle, then down to, and hack through tin- F<>rt, to Fort Wadsworth 
station ; or get off at that station, ami walk along the parapets and past the tower to 
Arrochar. It' you tire by the way, there are places tor refreshment, places left as a 
legacy by the early 1 >utch settlers for wearied ramblers. From Arrochar, down to the 
right from the station, is the 

Soi in Beach. 

In 1676, Jasper Dankers and Fetor HI uyter wandered along the South Beach to 
Onde Dorp and 
Nieuwe Dorp, and 
to the bluffs of Port 
Wadsworth, wrote 
an account of their 
tramps that made 
interesting leading. 
And nearly t w o 
hundred years later 
Thoreau told of the 
"wild dogs" that 
harked at him as he 
tramped along this 
same shore, and 
found something to 
interest him and to 
write about. There 

are shells on the South Shore, jingle shells, boat shells and the shell of Pandora. There 
are other things besides shells cast up by the waves. An old Hind man conns here 
to gather wood, which he feels for with a stick ; a hermit came some years ago and 
built a hut of driftwood, took the living that the world owed him from the sea, in the 
fish that lie caught and the birds that he shot ami if he was not particular as to size 
and shapes, he could find shoes on the sands, and for household utensils, brooms, 
chairs, coffee pots, rat traps, tables, bottles (corks drawn by the fishermen long 
ago), and even beds come iu on the waves and the sea — "it pays the freight." 
Wreckage of all sorts floats in, everything thai will float has been found, everything 
from a straw hed to a hustle — the latter doubtless a cast-off appendage of some 
mermaid belle, or perhaps not the style w ith the ladies of the sea. sent hack w ith the 
legend "didn't suit" or was " a mile too big." 

Across the Raritan Bay can he seen the Jersey towns on the highlands, and . amis 

of Sandy Hook w ith the light-ship floating restlessly outside. The hell buoy nearer 
the shore rings an incessant knell of passing swells that break iu on the sandy beach 
for bathers' purposes. 

Tin: Sou in Shore 

is reached by the railroad leading south from Clifton, and after leaving that station 
the scene is mure of inland, with an occasional glimpse of the sea from the windows 




ON STATEX ISLAND. 



15 



cm the left-hand side of the cava. At Garretsons and Grassmere the meadow lands 
Btretch out to the shore on the south side, and wooded hills rise up on the other, 
making some charming landscapes, with hill, valley, plain and seashore features. The 
train passes altogether too quickly, and it is advised to stop wherever the fancy 
impresses, and walk or ride through the shady lanes and fertile farms. Grant City 




The Old Tower, Akbochau. 

is the next stop. After leaving the station, a look from the right-hand side will show 
the old Moravian Church and cemetery with the Yanderbilt Mausoleum on the hill- 
side above it. The white building in the graveyard is the new church, the old one is 
to the right and just in the rear of the new church within the cemetery grounds. On 
the opposite side of the road from the cemetery gate is an old stone house in a grove 
of trees, which looks older than any of the old houses on the island, and which is 
often taken for the old Moravian Church, but it is only a farm house. 

New Dorp 

is the place to stop to see these interesting relics. A short walk northward from 



,1 



16 



RIDES AND /.'.I WBLES 



the station brings to the main road. Turn to the right and come to 1 1 1 « - cemetery; it 
is a beautiful one and very interesting ; the old tombs and the new are side by Bide, 
telling the story of the people of four and five generations of those that lived and 
died here. 

The progress of tomb building is marked in those of the Vanderbili family . Near 
the new church. and just back of it, lying on the grass is a small brown slab about 
two feet Long and nearly as v, ide, on which these words are graven : "In memory of 
tfeiltge, Widow of Jacob Vanderbilt, Born Feb. 10, 169a Deed. Dec. 9th, 1770. 
Aged 72 vcars, 9 months and li'.t davs." And mar this stone old Jacob lies. Under 
the trees a little further on is a tomb of more pretensions. This also belongs to the 
family, and has the single "word Yanderbilt. In this granite vault lies the body of 
Cornelius Vanderbilt, the architect of the greatest American fortune; beside him 
are the remains of his wives, one the mother of the family of which Wm. il. was the 
head, and up on the hillside is the great mausoleum where he is buried. 

A curious little monument is that surmounted by a ship's bell, done in white 
marble, erected to the memory of Isaac 
Kip Dustan, who lost his life in the dis- 
charge of his duty as captain of the ill-fated 
steamer "Atlantic," wrecked oil' Fisher's 
Island during the memorable gale of the 
28th of November, 1846. Hours might be 
spent in this beautiful city of the dead, but 
there are more cheerful scenes to visit. 

In coming up from the station a 
turn to the left will take the rambler 
past a pretty house back in an or- 
chard mi the right hand of the road, 
where once stood the inn of the Hose 
and Crown, burned sonic years ago, and at the 
forks of the road is the Black Horse Tavern, 
which was a famous resort in the olden time 
of K ing ( ieorge's redcoats, and niiUiy's the tale 
of their carousals and frolics. The old house 

has been remodeled to a very pretty road resort and is still the " Black Horse," 
where there is to be obtained "the best entertainment for man and beast." The old 
weather-beaten sign, but with a new post, still swings and creaks in the forks of the 
mads, where it hung more than a hundred years ago. to direct the traveler's mind 

to the good el r within. A genial man presides at the "Black Horse" now, — a 

host with a cheery smile ami words of kindly welcome, and since 1 \e heard him talk 
I believe an English soldier would hardly find the Black Horse a healthy tavern, 
especially if he was enemy to America. However, this is not a war article, and all 
comers are welcomed at the old tavern. After refreshment a short stroll down the 
shady lane brings you back to the station where a ten-cent fare and a haclc w ill take 
you to 

Ci'O.u; GbOVE BXACB 

and Peteler's Hotel. Here a pleasant surprise awaits the Staten Island rambler. It is 
not another old house with a history, though there are plenty of them all around, 

but a bright, fresh seaside resort, an airy hotel building, with wide galleries facing 
the sea and a grove of cedars growing so mar the water that they cast their shadows 
across the surf. ( \uning down the road with a fast hacking team the ride is a pleasant 
one, through a lane u ith pretty houses, and fields and groves on either side - passes 




ON STATEN ISLAND. 



17 



the old Vanderbilt homestead, turns the comer and into the park of the hotel — beau- 
tiful grounds, with little lakes and rustic bridges across the straits between, and comes 



up to the veranda, 
everything to im- 
first-class resort, 
the beach in front 
some curious and 
the old Bhenish 
berg and Stolzen- 
and pebbles. This 
chitecture forms 
the bowling-alleys 
leries. 

tbe verandas and 
right out to sea 
struct it, and 
flag-staff at Fort 
mouth of the Bari- 
land, Sandy Hook 
all in. 

room is a feature 
this most unique 
off the ladies' par- 
through the open 
rich coloring of 
by the stained 
which is support- 
Ponipeiian col- 
a fountain ; the tiled 
colors, and around the 
ty pictures, are some tables 
signs, the tables with onyx 
leather. On each side of a grotto 
by a noted artist, and at each corner 
statuary. But for the sounds of hilarity 
taut that some Pompeiian belle would 
must adjoin this hall — but she don't 
puts any life to the picture, and brings 

Court 

is a country station pure and simple, a 
habitants of Staten Island must come 
squabbles. Stages run during court- 
mond, the county capital. It was here 
Queen's Bangers, was quartered during 
the rebel population, as they were 
legend. Miss Britton was the 
grandfather's cider and was in 



where there is 

press the idea of a 

Statuary adorns 

of the hotel, and 

correct models of 

castles of Heidel- 

f els, made of shells 

same castle-like ar- 

the entrances to 

and shooting-gal- 

The view from 

windows looks 

with naught to ob- 

stretches from the 

Wadsworth to the 

tan , with Coney Is- 

and the Highlands 

A Pompeiian 

of the interior of 

resort. It is just 

lor; a glance 

door shows the 

the walls, softened 

glass of the dome, 

ed by some truly 

umns surrounding 

s of marble of appropriate 

walls, decorated with pret- 

s of ebony, in antique de- 

le chairs upholstered in 

Neapolitan views, painted 

and doorway there is an adornment of 

without one might sit here half expec- 

step from a doorway of her chamber that 

come ; it's only the American girl that 

you back from Pompeii to Peteler's. 

House 

station in the woods, but here all the in- 
to court — I mean to settle their legal 
week anyhow to the old town of Bich- 
that Simcoe's Tory Begiment, the 
the Bevolution and made it pleasant for 
termed. Bichmond is not without its 
Sign op The heroine. She was mulling her 
Black Horse. terrupted by the entrance of a 

The 




burly Hessian. The red-hot poker was her weapon which she used with effect. 
Hessian knew the game and he passed out. 

Near by are the headwaters of the Fresh Kills, of clear running water, with many 
a noisy cascade in the brooks, and rills that are round about, and the ruins of an old 



18 



RIDES AX/> AM MBLE8 



mill whose wheel has been idle these many years. Bere the artist may briujj his 

Bketch 1 k. There are old roads and atone walls and hedges, " quiet nooks " and 

** pleasing bits,"" with a forest of old trees where there are wild flowers in profusion. 

Cin toko's 

is a place where men get off with huge baskets nn<l trudge down the road to the 
Great Kills. They are amateur fishermen bound for those famous fishing haunts. 




Wfyva 






'I'm: Bn.iopp Housn, Tottknvii.i.e. 

Their baskets arc loaded at the going <>nt, and the men may be at the coming back, 
and if their baskets, are not, it-will not be the fault of the fish in the water at the 
Great Kills — there are millions in it. "Why the baskets must be filled in the city is a 
question, as refreshments, solid and otherwise, may be bad on the beach. At the Kills. 
near the water, an old frame house is shown which was the place of another of Gari- 
baldi's enterprises ; it was his candle factory that was located here. Eltingville 
is the next station, and then the 

Woods op Abdbn, 

a forest of big trees that extends down to the seashore, a grand picnic ground embrac- 
ing woodland and beach ; a favorite place for Sunday school excursions and the 
better class of picnickers. There is abundant shade, and cooling breezes blowing 
Straight from the sea leave nothing to be desired in BUCh a resort. The old 

farm-house of the tract is called the Arden Inn, wherethere is f 1 and shelter if the 

baskets are inadequate or it rains, though there are ample buildings for all picnic 
purposes Annadale and Huguenot are pretty country places where all the comforts 
of country life may be enjoyed, and with never a thought of the busy city that is less 
than an hour away. 

l'i;i\«i.*s Bay. 

is another noted place for fishermen. It is a mile from the station to the beach, with 
good sidewalks on the roadside, or if it is preferred to ride, there are conveyances te 
be had. There are Borne pretty homes at Prince's Bay, and the building is going on 



OX RTA TEX ISLAND. 



19 



as it' to show the contrast between the new Queen Anne of to-day and the heavy pil- 
lared portico of earlier times. There are samples of V>oth here, and the architecture 
of the place goes farther back than that — back a century at least. Pass the cottages 
next the station, see the fine old house of before the war, on the right in the grove of 
trees — a grand old place. Then, on the left of the road, is an unpretending cottage 
that has a history that must go unwritten ; it was built before New York was ; a little 
story and a half house that has stone walls thicker than the seven storied buildings of 
the city — a house that has a hall as wide as some rooms in a New York mansion, and 
rooms that are quaintly interesting, with low ceils and curious doors and windows. 
The genial occupant and owner has a pleasant word for his visitors, and his " gude 
wife" a kindly smile of welcome, which maybe accompanied by some lilies or roses, 
or perchance some cherries or strawberries, if you are there when they are ripe. It 
takes one back to the good old times to sit " on the front porch " or in the grateful 
shade of the trees, and look out upon the waters. There is in that old house the 
forgetting of many cares that may be left behind if you will. 

Two more stops, one at Pleasant Plains and the other at Kichmond Valley, and the 
journey brings us to the end of the Island, and as the train leaves the latter station 




Grecian Bend. 

the road comes near the Arthur Kill, and the North Shore is to be seen from the win- 
dows on the right-hand side of the train as it comes quickly to 

TOTTENVTLLE, 

and if no stops have been made, the journey from New York has been made in 
seventy minutes. This is rapid transit indeed, when the old way is compared, when 
the best boats took four to five hours. The station is within a short block of the 
ferry to Perth Amboy, and the steamer " Maid of Perth," connecting with all trains, 
makes the voyage to Jersey a short one. Tottenville is a pretty town, whose contented 
citizens seem at peace with all the world, and when all the world knows their occu- 



20 



RIDES AND RAMBLES 



pation, it must be al peace with all Tottenville. Nobody can have anything against 
mi oysterman, and most all in Tottenville are oystermen, and while the results of their 
catches have made other people happy, they have made themselves 10. Their pretty 
homes attest i li is, and their white hulled harks on the shore tell how the busi- 
ness is done. Tottenville has an 

HlSTOEIOAL Tkkasi BE 
in the old Billopp House, called by the natives " the stone house." It is located iu a 

j 




TnE Oi.ti Mill, Clove Lake. 

grove <>f spreading elms on the very tip end of Staten Island, overlooking Raritan 
Bay. The house was built by Christopher Billopp two hundred and twenty years ago, 
and for a hundred years was the family homestead, being occupied by the tory 
Colonel Christopher Billopp during the Revolutionary war. and here he was arrested 

by some patriots and cast into a Jersey jail. 

In this house Gen. Howe met the Congressional Committee, composed <>f Berjamin 
Franklin, John Adams and Edward Butledge, to discuss a treaty of peace, just after 
the battle of Long Island. The parley was without result and the committee returned 
to ( 'ongress. For a Ion- time the house was used by the British, either as a barracks 
or headquarters. The walls are of stone and very thick, and would afford ample pro- 
tect ion against the guns of that day. 

The house is in an excellent state of preservation, and the walls and heavy hewn 
timbers seem as solid as when they were placed. An arched vault is under the house, 
extending its w hole Length, which might have served as dungeon or wine cellars. The 

Sleepers overhead on which the floor is laid arc heavy enough for a railroad bridge 
— they built houses in those days t i stay. 

In a corner of the field back of the house are buried some of the Billopp family ; 
there are two brown slabs lying on the graves ; the inscription on one is gone entirely ; 



02T STATEJT ISLAND. 



21 



the other is well preserved. It reads : "Here Lyes ye Body of Thomas Billopp, 
Estp"., ye Son of Thomas Farmer, Esq r ., Dec d . August ye 2d, 1750, in ye 39 year of 
his age." The graves are neglected and uncared for, left without enclosure", to he 
trodden over by horse or cattle. If for no other reason an enclosure should 1 »e put 
about these relics of our ancient history. 

It is a pleasant jaunt from the village to see this old homestead, not a long walk ; 
but it is jdeasant to sit down on the grass and rest under the great spreading trees, 
look out upon the peaceful waters, let one's thoughts wander back through the ages 
and dream of people who have come and gone under this ancient roof-tree, of the 
hopes and fears in the troublous times of war, and the joys of peace. It is a pleasant 
jaunt and well worth the while of the journey. Anyone will tell you the way to the 
old stone house. Coming out of the Rapid Transit Station turn to the left, walk to 
the end of the main street to the brick church in the grove, turn to the right and 
come to a turnstile ; then take the j)ath across the field, pass through a little lane and 
come to the Billopp House after a fifteen-minute easy walk — a most pleasant one, 
with an ending that is intensely interesting. 

Tottenville is only an hour from New York — an hour of pleasant journey, whose 
returning half is as pleasant, as every scene will bear an encore. 

The West Shore 
is not reached by rail ; it must be by boat from Erastina or Tottenville, or by stage 




Old Moravian Church, New Dorp. 

from Port Richmond or Huguenot. Linoleumville is near the site of the old Blazing 
Star Ferry, which was on the stage route between New York and Philadelphia, and it 
occurs to the mind right here, that if this was a good route for a stage coach, why not 
for a railroad. Hence its adoption by the great Baltimore and Ohio. To effect an 
entrance to the metropolis it takes the route of the first highway thereto. Kreisch- 
erville is reached by stage from Richmond Yailey. Around about these towns on 



22 



RIDES .1 \f> AM V/.7./> 



the West Shore there are in theGreai Fresh Kills and the woods much ♦ <> induce the 
lis In ri 1 1 an and the hunter, and for a quiet time in the country and an opportunity to 
wear out your old clothes the neighborhood is unsurpassed. STou can go as yon 
please, and if the notion takes you. sudden like, the city is scarcely an hour away. 

The Interior 

of States Fsland lias a host of attractions for rides and rambles. < >1<1 < S-rimes is dead, 
that good old man whose COat Was all buttoned down before, but Grirneses Hill is 




A Coi n ikv Boas. 

still on Staten Island, just baek of Tompkinsville. Climb to the top of it and 
to the finest panoramic view anywhere the Island and the Bay and the cities. 
all are in the magnificent picture. Many prominent Americans have their country 
.seats on these hills, and the roads through the farms are lined with pretty houses, 
from the cosy cottage to the more pretentious villa. Then there is Silver Lake 
ami Chive hake both in this neighborhood, romantio waters that have their Legends 
from way back, and every ripple of the crj Btal waters could tell nf soi ne romances 
they have been witness of, and the trees, the Lovers they have overshadowed, losers 

both red and pale face and where these two meet the legend follows, for the course 

of true love, between white man ami Indian maiden particularly, never did run 
smooth, and he was either scalped incontinently, or there was '• a lover's leap " from 
Some towering rock, or both. Silver Lake did not escape, neither did (love, so 
there are grounds here for the romancer's rambles which may be most conveniently 
made from Stapleton. It's no use to direct the wa\ ; Mm can't miss it. Leave the 
station and .strike for the interior: any road will be the righl one if you are on 

pleasure bent. 

Toe it Hill is reached by the Clove mad and is the highesl poinl on the island, and 
the view from the summit a grand one. Back on the west side is another point of 



ON STA TEN ISLAND. 



23 



interest called Old Place, at the end of a pleasant stroll back from Erastina, where 
there is an old mill rnin that would make an artist's study. 

There are mills and mills on the Island which in their palmiest days could not 
have ground faster than those " of the gods," not less slowly, surely, and perhaps 
not with that exceeding fineness ; there is another at Willow Brook, back at Port 
Richmond, with a broken dam and wheel. One of the old taverns of the early days 
was the Bull's Head, near Willow Brook, at the crossing of Richmond turnpike and 
the Morning Star road, which was a noted resort for sports, and many's the tale told 
of the "toughs'" that congregated there. Of course there was a Jack Potts, tall of 
stature, dark of brow and of scowling mien, who was always accompanied by a big black 
dog, which he brought along to keep him company when his own winnings were large, 
or to help escort some other successful player home, who was sometimes never heard 
of after. 

Some of the most interesting stories are written of the islands of the sea. No tale 
lever had the run that Robinson ^ ^^ Crusoe's did, and many and 

(many a romance has had its ^^^ "^^ scenes upon an island, so 

ijhat there is a tinge of in- jr s -~ _;!.-.>. terest whenever the word 

lis written, and there is / '" __>--?" X abundant material in the 



pills and valleys, the 
3ne ; and though it lies 
(greatest city, it has with- 
make up of a pretty story; 
thing here to make a 
or a home for winter as 




lakes and brooks of this 
within the view of the 
in its borders all the 
besides, there is every- 
happy summer's outing 
well as summer days. 



The End of the Islanu. 



^Wwjij // |Ki< 

Jefvoofl ,-*j A hl||| | | || l || || "-? 




SanOY hook 



r^v. 



UUfcUL 



Si 



MAT ( )K STATBN ISLAND 

And the STATEN ISLAND RAPID TRANSIT RAILROAD, STATEN ISLAND FERRY and 
BAY RIDGE FERRY. 



SN 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 



014 112 953 3 



-^tO-^ 









